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Jambo/Surface lure step-by-step

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  • Jambo/Surface lure step-by-step

    As promised, here's a step-by-step lesson on how to create a jambo, or surface lure.

    Step 1:



    Attach the treble hook to the vice. Take a length of nylon, 20cm of so will suffice – hard nylon/fluoro is best, here I have used Seaguar. Pass one end of the nylon through the eye of the treble, then pass the other end through from the other direction.

    Step 2:



    Draw both ends tight and make sure the loop being formed gets trapped between the bend of the treble hooks. Trap the loop on the treble and secure with the thread. Once a few wraps have been formed you can draw the loop in tightly.

    Step 3:



    After a base of tying thread has been formed attach some silver tinsel. Further to this, apply a coat of superb glue, which will help secure the nylon, but also secure the silver tinsel without the need of a wire rib.

    Step 4:



    Run the tinsel down the length of the treble, then secure at the head. Build up a ‘strike point’ of fire-orange thread and super-glue or varnish to finish off – it is important to varnish at this stage, doing so later could equate to wing material etc. getting trapped in the varnish.

    Step 5:



    Point the eye of the treble towards you, with the two ends of the nylon hanging loosely. Pass one length of nylon over the other and continue to do so until a good length of twists have been constructed - drawing the two lengths away from each other will help in getting tighter twists, which, in turn, slightly stiffens the connection. Don’t be tempted to hold the nylon and twist the treble, the twists won’t form the same and will not hold the same. Once enough twists have been formed throw a half hitch to hold them in place until ready for use.

    Step 6:



    Attach the Aberdeen hook to the vice, and bring the nylon and treble up to be secured. Measure the length to protrude before securing, pinch and loop, then secure along the rest of the shank. Once the initial section has been secured the rest of the twists can be worked out, in order to give you a level tying bed on which to construct the body.

    Step 7:



    When working the two lengths of nylon down the shank pass one end through the eye of the hook and loop it back under the shank. Secure with thread, snip the one length near the eye of the hook, and the other length, which has been doubled back, by the bend. Fully secure the whole body with thread and apply a coat of superglue to secure and bind.



    Step 8:



    Trap in some silver tinsel followed by some black floss towards the bend of the hook.

    Step 9:



    First take the black floss in touching turns two thirds of the way up the shank, followed by the silver tinsel in open turns. There’s no need to go right up to the eye of the hook, as the front third will be covered with the spun deer hair.

    Step 10:



    Feel free to explore your own tangents with the wing colours and combinations, with the same being said for the deer hair for the head section. Here I have firstly used some electric blue bucktail, followed by some mirage tinsel, topped with some peacock eye fibres – I prefer the materials to protrude beyond the treble.

    Step 11:




    The next stage is to tightly clump and secure several portions of dyed black deer hair. Stack the portions tightly, pulling the last lot back before securing the next, to enable as much to be incorporated as possible. You should be left with a healthy afro.

    Step 12:



    With the hard work now complete it’s time to get working with the scissors and pliers. Snip the bend of the Aberdeen hook as close as you can to the dressed body – taking care not to damage the nylon in the process. Take care where the bend springs off to when cut, as they can fire off at speed – try holding the fly in a cloth when cutting, which traps the cut end. Further to this, you can start working on the spun head. Clip the under section quite tightly, and fully expose the dressed body. The topside can be tapered slightly towards the tail end, as can the sides. Leave the head bulbous and scruffy, with the greatest buoyancy towards the top of the fly.

    Step 13:







    The finished article, note the clipped under section, which allows the mid-section to ride in the surface.

    Hope that helps.

    TT.

  • #2
    Been looking back through the Step by Steps, and I can ...

    OHOOOOO SO see this Puppy for low water/late in the Fall Steelhead fishing. Lani Waller made a VCR program (three tapes?) where he's fishing in BC. In one bit he's doing Skaters over this huge bit of water (no idea what river at this point) and there's a 'rise' the size of a surfacing Submarine....:?

    Watching someone who really knows what he's doing, do his thing was amazing, simply amazing. I've always wanted to pull something like that off ... but that's a 'dream' that will probably never happen.

    "But Hope Springs Eternal In the Heart's Of Man."

    Comment


    • #3
      great step by step steff the way it should be done

      Comment


      • #4
        Thanks for this step-by-step TT.

        I need to tie some more surface lures and was wondering if it's possible to use a single or double hook? I had a couple of bad hook-ups last night using shop-bought jambos with very small trebles which, to make matters worse, proceeded to sink after a few casts. ::

        Any suggestions for a single or double mount?

        Thanks

        Comment


        • #5
          Excellent post. Many thanks for sharing..

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by silverstoat View Post
            Thanks for this step-by-step TT.

            I need to tie some more surface lures and was wondering if it's possible to use a single or double hook? I had a couple of bad hook-ups last night using shop-bought jambos with very small trebles which, to make matters worse, proceeded to sink after a few casts. ::

            Any suggestions for a single or double mount?

            Thanks
            Great to catch up the other day, SS. Well done on your efforts - you are tying a great fly and fishing really well |\

            How things change; I tend to fish a very different surface lure nowadays, as you saw the other night. Beyond the deer hair, I now also stack some foam above the head, to keep it buoyant but also to make sure that it still fishes in not on the surface. I also have a little white foam sighter post that it dipped in glue and glow in the dark powder, which adds an extra element to the fly; you see where the fly is at all times (it's on top, so the fish don't see it), and it's great when netting a fish.

            I also now replace the treble with an oversized single hook. The Owner C-5 being my hook of choice in a size 2. Works perfectly and hook-up ratio has been great.

            TT.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Teifi-Terrorist View Post
              Great to catch up the other day, SS. Well done on your efforts - you are tying a great fly and fishing really well |\

              How things change; I tend to fish a very different surface lure nowadays, as you saw the other night. Beyond the deer hair, I now also stack some foam above the head, to keep it buoyant but also to make sure that it still fishes in not on the surface. I also have a little white foam sighter post that it dipped in glue and glow in the dark powder, which adds an extra element to the fly; you see where the fly is at all times (it's on top, so the fish don't see it), and it's great when netting a fish.

              I also now replace the treble with an oversized single hook. The Owner C-5 being my hook of choice in a size 2. Works perfectly and hook-up ratio has been great.

              TT.
              Many thanks TT! I'm sure it would have been a very different week for me without your guidance at the beginning.

              Do you secure the stinger hook with shrink tube to the main fly shank? Also, is the stinger pointing up or down?

              The glow-in-the dark powder was genius, and improved my casting a bulky surface lure immeasurably. I'm currently looking on eBay for the powder - a bewildering amount of choice and mostly aimed at the nail art / manicurist market. Let's hope I don't get any on my nails when tying flies... :}

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by silverstoat View Post
                Many thanks TT! I'm sure it would have been a very different week for me without your guidance at the beginning.

                Do you secure the stinger hook with shrink tube to the main fly shank? Also, is the stinger pointing up or down?

                The glow-in-the dark powder was genius, and improved my casting a bulky surface lure immeasurably. I'm currently looking on eBay for the powder - a bewildering amount of choice and mostly aimed at the nail art / manicurist market. Let's hope I don't get any on my nails when tying flies... :}
                My pleasure SS |\

                Yes, secure the single with the shrink tubing. I have the point down on this one - purely to have more weight on the downward angle, which I find critical on surface lures.

                As for the powder, this is the stuff in green - 10g goes a very long way! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THE-STRONG...ul75KSzLVBpgqA

                Tight tying,

                TT.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Many thanks TT.
                  Excellent thread.

                  A question;
                  Your photo of the freshly tied lure shows the fibres clean, whereas the photo of the lure in the water seems to have lumps of grease (Mucilin maybe) in the hair fibres?

                  I have around a dozen Jambos, all tied in Wales by three different individuals and none of them float after the first half a dozen casts.
                  Their sinking has annoyed me so much I have given up using them.

                  My assumption was that deer hair floated naturally but whatever happened, mine didn't, so should I be applying a floatant or am I missing something? {;

                  Thanks in advance.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Teifi-Terrorist View Post
                    My pleasure SS |\

                    Yes, secure the single with the shrink tubing. I have the point down on this one - purely to have more weight on the downward angle, which I find critical on surface lures.

                    As for the powder, this is the stuff in green - 10g goes a very long way! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/THE-STRONG...ul75KSzLVBpgqA

                    Tight tying,

                    TT.
                    Great - thanks TT. Have just ordered some powder, c-5 hooks, and more shrink tube so will be tying soon. |\

                    Comment

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